Cruising Along Time and Space

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Alaska’s beauty robs me purpose, of the small discipline I normally possess.

Tuesday’s mission was whale watching.  Yesterday’s was to wander the streets of a third coastal town.  Today’s intention remains unknown.  All I know for sure is that thoughts of home are stirring …and that, as nice as cruising is, one day and town run into another.

Was it Tuesday or Wednesday?  The question generated big discussion at dinner two nights ago; the question was settled by the calendar on someone’s watch:  It was Tuesday.  Instead of days of the week, ports of call mark time on board.   Tuesday was Icy Strait Point, Wednesday was Ketchikan.  Today we are cruising along time and space, set loose upon the seas.

Activities too, partition time into 45 minute intervals.  Wednesday, after touring Ketchikan, we gathered for afternoon activities; my husband and I learned the basics of Italian in the first set of 45; later, we played another 45 of “Name That ’80’s Tune” trivia game.

Would you believe two young things from Jersey won?   These girls were wearing diapers and running around a school playground when these songs were first spinning from a turntable.  But yesterday the tables had turned – the songs, once ours, we no longer knew by name, no matter how many notes streamed from the IPOD.

The competition was good.  And though fair, it wasn’t pretty.  Had my mother seen it, she would have called them bad sports – and she would have said it loud enough for everyone to hear.  Every time they jotted down a correct answer – about 17 for 20 — they scanned their competition.  And finding stumped expressions, they’d taunt their poor feeble minded competitors with, “Come on, you guys grew up with this music.  I can’t believe you don’t know this one.”  They took the prize, these two from Jersey.

Of course, the best prizes don’t come from shipboard games.  One of mine came in Tuesday’s port of call.  A picture postcard setting — periwinkle seas shimmering silver from sun dripping through clouds, the ocean mirroring a faint outline of distant mountains – fading into background when, not fifty feet from where I stood, a beautiful Humpback Whale broke through the sea’s surface.  As her head skimmed the waters beside us, she blew geyser mist above her blow hole, disturbing the quiet with a giant rush of air.

Taking deep breaths is preparation for cruising along time and space.

Making Do

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All the easily developed land has been developed.  And what isn’t easy – like building the parking garage in downtown Juneau that required excavation and removal of a colossal size rock – is sometimes taken on too, if the rock is taking up prime real estate.

Not all rocks require excavation.  I found a good many turned into billboards, like these that line Skagway’s port and harbor.  But nowhere did I find evidence of new buildings beside old ones within historic districts.  Rather than tearing down and building new, like the good folks of West “U” –  that posh neighborhood inside Houston’s Loop, where many three story mini-mansions keep company with cottage bungalows  — the people of Juneau and Skagway tend to recycle, to just make do with their land.  Between mountains and sea, there’s no other choice but to make do.

Who cares if a building, that today houses one of Juneau’s many souvenir shops, still boasts that carved-in-stone name of “Juneau Laundry?”  Or that a sporting goods store now resides in the old home of Alaska Electric Light and Power Company?

Or that Rainbow Foods operates in excess space from a church whose name is not as prominently displayed?

Whether “Rainbow Foods” Church has a little grocery side-business or whether it supplements its pass-the-plate collections with rental income, either causes wonder on which part of their building is busiest – the one devoted to groceries or the one devoted to worship of God.

Downsizing church property is one thing, but within a block of “Rainbow” Church, two churches have closed their doors.  Though nearby signs indicated both spaces were available, I couldn’t imagine any kind of business willing to resurrect this once sacred space.  Until I recalled my favorite eating place — located again — inside the Houston Loop; of all places, Mark’s American Restaurant runs its business in the lofty cathedral arched building of a former church on Westheimer Street.

I can no longer recall the name or the denomination of the former church that once filled this prime piece of real estate.  Though I’m a little bothered by my memory lapse, I’m more bothered by the thought of dying churches, especially when evidence of resurrection – by a subsequent succeeding business – proves it wasn’t the location but something else that needed tending.

When Mark’s was rated by USA Today as one of the top ten places to eat in the United States, it took weeks to secure a dinner reservation.  Last time my husband and I dined there, which happened on just an ordinary week night – five years after USA Today’s blessing — every seat was full.  Had this ever been true for the church that once inhabited “Mark’s” space?

All these words on rocks and churches and resurrected buildings and “making do” has me recalling a few words of Jesus in the Gospels — “On this rock, I will build my church” — spoken in response to Peter’s confession to Jesus, “You are the Christ”; Jesus spoke to Peter and to all the disciples and whoever else was in hearing range of Peter’s Great Confession.

Thinking about that ragtag band of Peter and the other disciples — who never understood Jesus’ teachings, who were busy jostling for heavenly rewards (like the right hand seat of Jesus), who as a group, betrayed and scattered and even denied knowing Jesus the night he was arrested – alongside the words “On this rock, I will build my church”, only goes to show Jesus was making do too.

I suppose he still does.

Postcards Starboard

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There’s a postcard outside my window this morning.

Surely beauty grows wild in Alaska.  Instead of wildlife and wildflowers, it’s the mountains rushing to greet us today – mountains backlit by the hint of an eastern sun.

Still clouds reign, though the beauty of this place is not disguised.  Thick conifers fall to the sea.  Likely Black and White Spuce, they stand in rows, one on top of another, as if standing before their assigned stadium seats.  Cheering.  Soon the ship will dock, allowing us to mingle with the sights and tastes of Juneau.

Hubbard Glacier was doing what it does best yesterday – calving icebergs.  Thunder roared, just like for rain in the sky, to announce the birth of a new independent entity.  Around Old Mother Hubbard, the seas were filled with offspring; a few turned into air mattresses for seals in need of a little rest in the weak sun.

The ship officers made their own proud announcement yesterday:  Our ship was brought within two-tenths of a mile to ‘shore’, closer than any of this ship’s other cruises to Hubbard this season.  Being a bit of a skeptic, I wondered if they didn’t tell the same to all the other ‘girls.’

No matter.  There’s no need to boast in Alaska.  Near or far, there is a sense of the holy all about me.  I feel lost and at a loss for words.  And isn’t this the way it always is, whenever and wherever humans bump up against the Holy; whether on the pages of the Bible or in the here and now, we stumble for words of our experience.  “God cannot be expressed but only experienced,” writes Frederick Buechner.

Which makes me think — surely the tired and worn phrase of postcard writing – “Wish you were here” – was born in Alaska.